Denia
Perched on a winding mountain road overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Denia is one
of the loveliest resort towns on the Costa Blanca. Inhabited since prehistoric times,
it has attracted the attention of nearly every invading army that has come to Spain,
from the Greeks in the fourth century via the Romans and the Visigoths. Under the
Moors the town’s history took an unusual turn: Denia became capital of an independent
taifa kingdom that reigned over the Valencian coast and Ibiza. Then the Slavic slaves
managed to free themselves and they ran the taifa until 1076, when it fell to Ahmad
al-Muqtadir, lord of Zaragoza. Recaptured by the Christians in 1244, there was such
an exodus of the Moorish population that the town was practically uninhabited for
centuries. From the turn of the nineteenth century onwards it seemed to regain its
appeal: French troops occupied it for four years, during which time they managed
to destroy the castle and rebuild it, and later a contingent of English raisin traders
made Denia their base until the Spanish Civil War.
Today, Denia has the best beaches on this stretch of coast – clean, picturesque
and secluded, with the perfect sunny climate in which to enjoy them. (As elsewhere
on the Costa Blanca, temperatures are warm – a minimum of 18°C – between March and
November, reaching as high as 35°C in August.) The only downside is that many of
them are inaccessible unless you have a car. This is also an attractive area for
golfers: Oliva Nova Golf Resort is just to the north of town, while there are a
wealth of alternatives within easy driving distance around the Costa Blanca. Parents
with kids to entertain will appreciate the theme parks of Benidorm; lower key alternatives
in Denia itself include banana boating, or you could take a mini cruise along the
coast from the harbour.
The biggest cultural attraction is Denia Castle, perched high on a crag overlooking
the town. Take the tourist train up from the tourist office to get outstanding views
of the dwellings below, the bay, and the surrounding countryside, before wandering
round the atmospheric old buildings. The ornate Palau del Gobernador is found within
the castle walls: the attached museum details the history of the fortress. The streets
outside are brightly painted – follow them down to the lovely old Iglesia de la
Asuncion, which has a fine dome.
The best time of year to visit Denia is during one of its two colourful fiestas.
In March, the bonfire festival is celebrated. Huge paper mache statues, known as
fallas, are set up throughout town and then set alight. July brings Bous de la Mar
(Bulls of the Sea), a weeklong fiesta of which the highlight is watching bulls run
down the main street, to be chased into the sea by those foolhardy enough to enter
the makeshift bullring.
As fits a sleepy resort, Denia’s nightlife is relaxed at best. There are two streets
to choose from: shady Marques del Campo, which has the best bars, and El Port, a
line of attractive restaurants facing the port area. Most places specialise in local
rice dishes, such as paella, or black rice – rice cooked with squid in its own ink.
The local speciality is Fideua, a noodle based paella.