Fuengirola
Known as Torremolinos’ staid older sister, Fuengirola is one of the few resorts
on the Costa del Sol that still retains a little of its history. Founded by the
Phoenicians and later occupied by the Romans, the fortified town was originally
called Suel. Roman baths, statues and the entrance to a temple have been discovered
around the beaches. In the 10th century, the Moors moved in. Suel became Suhayl,
a castle was built and the settlement became increasingly prosperous, home to famous
scholars and rulers. Everything changed after a fire in the 14th century, which
left most of the town in ashes and its inhabitants scattered around the region.
The Christian kings renamed it Font-Jirola, Fount of Water, after a spring they
discovered at the castle gates; but the land remained empty for nearly two hundred
years. Only when the Turkish pirates disappeared did people start to settle there
again; first an inn was opened on the beach, then a few huts were built, until by
1950 there was a thriving fishing village on top of the ruins of the ancient town.
The fate of Fuengirola changed once again with mass tourism: since 1960, it has
become a major tourist centre, offering all the facilities most people want and
quite a few more besides. Wide beaches, luxury hotels and restaurants, chic boutiques,
a yacht port and even a racecourse are among the attractions, making it ideal for
families. The average annual temperature is 19º and it’s sunny for an astonishing
325 days each year. Activities include golf, jet-skiing, riding, fishing and go-karting
are all easily accessible. There are also fantastic flea markets at the fairground
on Tuesdays and Saturdays and at the marina on Sundays.
The town’s tangled history means that there are still a lot of ruins to visit, from
the tenth-century castle that dominates the western beaches to the Roman columns
in Los Boliches. The Plaza de Toros hosts massive bullfights in spring – whatever
your views, it’s a spectacle worth experiencing once. At the opposite end of the
spectrum, Fuengirola Zoo was rebuilt in 2001 and is now renowned for its excellent
tropical forest dwellings. The zoo specialises in breeding endangered species and
chimpanzee research.
Walking through the Moorish streets is ideal for romance: if you get tired, there
are horse-drawn carriages throughout the centre. There’s no excuse for being hungry,
either: the local food is exquisite; plenty of seafood, grilled octopus, spiced
pork kebabs and home made fudge or nougat are just some of the delicious treats
on offer.
As befits its more family-oriented image, Fuengirola is less hectic at night than
its neighbours but there’s still plenty to see and do: flamenco shows, cinemas,
theatre, salsa lounges and the famous “chiringuitos”, beach restaurants… It all
builds up to the feria in October, a week-long party that includes horse displays,
parades and dancing everywhere in an explosion of passion and noise. The celebrations
never end and many revellers stay out all night, breakfasting on churros, long thin
doughnuts.