Torremolinos
Immortalised in Monty Python’s Flying Circus, Torremolinos was the first resort
to be developed on the Costa del Sol. Until the 1950s it was a small village, continuously
inhabited for 150,000 years by different civilisations that left odd structures
behind them but of little importance to outsiders. In 1498 it served as the base
for the Christian Kings who were trying to retake Malaga from the Moors. Thereafter
it languished in obscurity until the advent of the package tour, which brought waves
of northern European tourists in the late 1950s.
The peaceful agricultural, fishing and flour producing Andalusian village of 3,000
inhabitants has now grown into a maze of hotels and shopping arcades in which the
original fresh fish bars sit incongruously. The expat population is enormous: British,
Germans and Scandinavians, with a few Russian mafia bosses for good measure. They
are drawn by the wide sandy beaches, longer and cleaner than in most parts of the
coast, and the balmy climate, which offers over 320 days of sunshine a year and
an average annual temperature of 22º. In summer temperatures rarely fall below 30º.
A lot of people go to Torremolinos for the nightlife: from the Irish pubs that line
the streets of the centre to the hectic theme bars and clubs on the beach, there’s
very little chance of getting bored – and the fierce competition means that it’s
very cheap. For more active types, there is every kind of water sport, including
windsurfing, paragliding and waterskiing. Up in the hills, pony trekking and mountain
biking are also on offer, while there are a number of world-class golf courses in
the area. There are three forests with freshwater springs and barbeque facilities
on the outskirts of town; these are perfect places to escape the crowds.
Sight-seeing opportunities are fairly limited. Bustling Calle San Miguel, in the
centre, is completely pedestrianised – the ideal place for souvenir shopping. In
the middle of the street, the Torre de Molinos (water tower) is a reminder of the
town’s Arabian heritage. Heading east, El Bojoncillo is a picturesque old fishing
district. Further on, La Carihuela is the “elegant” end of town, a pretty village
where old men play dominoes on flowery patios, sipping anis. Dotted throughout the
town, newly constructed pleasure gardens are home to over one thousand tree species
and provide welcome refreshment from the scorching concrete.
The best place to eat in Torremolinos is at the beach restaurants known as “chiringuitos”.
Sardines cooked on the barbeque and freshly caught calamares are the specialities,
but leave space for the tapas, which are among the best in Andalucia. Roasted bell
pepper salad, fried fish in adobo and fish with ali-oil garlic sauce all come highly
recommended. Torta de Aceite de Torremolinos (Torremolinos oil cake) is the favourite
pudding. For the more adventurous visitor, a trip into the backstreets promises
exquisite tapas in the company of locals, who wash down their snacks with tinto
de verano – red wine and lemonade. It may sound odd but like everything else in
this kitsch paradise, once tasted it proves addictive.